The Reiver Curse

All the time we have been here in England we have been in an area has seen its fair share of turmoil. The Scots and the English were in a constant state of warfare for almost 1000 years. During that period of time there was also the problem of the border reivers. They were kind of private raiders and plunderers who moved across the area burning farms, stealing cattle and creating general mayhem,

Shelley’s family and mine seem to have roots in this area. Shelley’s family, the Salkeld’s were on what is now the English side raiding north. Hunter was on the Scottish side raiding south.

The Archbishop of Glasgow, Davin Dunbar was quite upset about the state of affairs and, insisted that a curse on the reivers be read from the pulpit in every parish.

In Carlisle there is a stone with a part of the curse engraved in it and the reiver names are carved into the floor. The sculptor was from a reiver family. Part of the curse is below.

I curse their heid and all the haris of thair heid; I curse thair face, thair ene, thair mouth, thair neise, thair tongue, thair teeth, thair crag, thair shoulderis, thair breist, thair hert, thair stomok, thair bak, thair wame, thair armes, thais leggis, thair handis, thair feit, and everilk part of thair body, frae the top of their heid to the soill of thair feet, befoir and behind, within and without. I curse thaim gangand, and I curse them rydland; I curse thaim standand, and I curse thaim sittand; I curse thaim etand, I curse thaim drinkand; I curse thaim walkand, I curse thaim sleepand; I curse thaim risand, I curse thaim lyand; I curse thaim at hame, I curse thaim fra hame; I curse thaim within the house, I curse thaim without the house; I curse thair wiffis, thair barnis, and thair servandis participand with thaim in their deides. I way thair cornys, thair catales, thair woll, thair scheip, thjair horse, thair swyne, thair geise, thair hennes, and all thair quyk gude. I wary their hallis, thair chalmeris, thair kechingis, thair stanillis, thair barnys, thair biris, thair bernyardis, thair cailyardis thair plewis, thair harrowis, and the gudis and housis that is necessair for their sustentatioun and weilfair.

It goes on for 1100 words or more. A bit excessive. Some Carlisle city aldermen think the stone has brought the city bad luck and want it removed.

Both Shelley and I think the Archbishop went a bit too far. perhaps in explains why both of us have problems with authority figures.

Down the Road to Penrith

We challanged the BBC weather forecast and won again. It was a great day despite their gloomy predictions. Shelley and I took the bus to Penrith where we catch our train tomorrow. It is about 16 miles east of Keswick.

I like the Brit's attitude about buses. They seem to run everywhere and seniors ride for free after 9:30 in the morning and all day on weekends. So when it gets boring, they just hop on a bus and ride to another town, have cuppa tea and ride back.

Just in case you aren't about what is acceptable they post rules on the bus.
No smoking, no smelly food, no hot, fizzy or alcoholic drinks
Using a personal stereo or mobile phone? Keep them quiet.
If the bus is full give your seat up to someone who might need it more than you
Don't put your feet on the seats
Keep dogs on leash and off the seats
Any questions?

Penrith is, or was the market town in the area.It is much different from Keswick. It is very much a working town an interesting maze of narrow streets. The original builders used a lot of red sandstone which is a real contrast to the slate used in Keswick.

We had lunch in the Gloucester Arms Pub. It is an old "Elizabethan lesser town residence" dating back to about 1580. Some of the original wood paneling remains intact, the ceiling are low and the fireplaces you can see were originally large enough to cook in a side of beef in.

There is a claim that the Duke of Gloucester, who became Richard the third, stayed there at some point but it is dubious claim at best. The Duke had a castle a few blocks away. It seems unlikely he stay in a local house considering the options.

The pub was very traditional with four bitter taps together ot the bar. As well as the usual selections of Smithwicks, Bottingtons and the lagers they had Hawkshead, Black Sheep, Old Speckled Hen and Hobgoblin bitters.

Castlerigg

This morning we walked up to the stone circle near Keswick, up the hill forty minutes. We started off mid morning and made it back for lunch, so that is pretty near.

The circle is one of many in the Lake District. No one really knows who exactly made the circle or why but they date back to any where between 2500 to 1600 B.C. so, they are pretty old. We hope to be able to figure out how to see some of the others but it is a challenge. None are that close to each other and none really easily easy to get to.

It is quite an experience to visit. Castlerigg is on a high meadow surrounded by mountains on every side, It is a very special spot. You can imagine groups of fairly primitive peoples gathering on special occasions to celebrate here.

Shelley and wanted to see the circle without the crowds so we got up early and walked up to Castlerigg this morning early. We were there before 7:00. Four photographers beat us to it.

Hiking with dogs!

These guys amazed us! Each had his dog, and each also had a huge pack with gear (for himself, and for his dog).

They seemed to do well --they leashed the dogs whenever sheep were in the fields, but they struggled over each style with the dogs. (In some parts of England --- Cornwall and the Lake District -- there are access ways for dogs through styles, but not in Northumbria along the wall.)

We took pictures for them (with their cameras) at a turret or fort along the way. And their dogs were so cute! The one walking on the wall was a scruffy rescue dog; the other, docile and well trained.

Anyway, these are the guys and dogs we met at the end of the walk, hanging out in the shade on the road outside the pub at Bowness on Sollway. But the dogs could not enter the pub with their possessions. So sad.

Its a dogs life

At the eastern end of Hadrian's Wall, there is a pub called the King's Arms.

On the front door of this pub, there is a sign: "Sorry/No dog's/allowed."

Imagine! The poor dogs! After a long walk along the wall, they reach the only pub and can't bring in their... what?

Exactly which possessions of the dogs are not allowed within the confines of this final pub?

We don't know.

We were co-hiking with two young men and their dogs (we met them a few times), and when we reached the pub, both men were relaxing outside, backs against the outside wall, legs sprawled out into the narrow road, dogs sitting politely beside them.

We greeted them and congratulated them on completing the journey -- they had huge packs with camping gear AND dog food! -- but it never occurred to us to ask: "Which of dog's possessions were not allowed into this pub?

Red Squirrels?

Shelley and I are sitting here in the bar below where we are staying having a bowl of olives with olive oil, garlic and chili and drinking shiraz. We thought we'd share the sign we saw this morning with you.

What is so special about red squirrels I had to ask? Shelley who is my source of all knowledge reminded me that grey squirrels have been pushing out the native red squirrels and of course Beatrix Potter lived close to here. Her story about Nutkin squirrel and his brother Twinkeberry remind us that red squirrels are precious.

We never saw one.

(For the record Shelley did not remember the names Nutkin nor Twinkleberry but we do have access to Wikipedia)

A Very English Town

Despite being very Scottish, Edinburgh is a very international city. The street is full of tourists from all over the world and you hear a a chorus of differant languages. Walking Hadrian's Wall we met Australians, Germans, Dutch, a Finnish couple, plenty of Brits. We were the only Canadians we came across and we one person in our group was from New York City.

The Lake District must be where the English come on vacation. You do hear the occasional accent but, it is fairly rare.

So Keswick is a very English town. Last night as we walked to dinner the locals we lining up for their fish & chip take away.